Spain August 29 - September 9, 1998


Arriving midday on August 30th and birding until September 8th, nine and a half intensive days were spent birding in central and southern Spain. The first three days were spent with local guide John Muddeman who proved extremely competent. These were spent firstly in the Madrid province, then north to Segovia (Castilla y León), south-east to Cuenca (Castilla - La Mancha) and then finally west to Toledo and the north of Extremadura.

After spending some time around Monfragüe (Extremedera), I then headed alone, south to Andalusia via La Serena. The places of interest here were Doñana, Tarifa and Gibraltar. I then undertook the long drive back to Madrid - east along the uninspiring Costa del Sol to Málaga and then north to Córdoba and Toledo. The last half day (September 9th) was spent in Madrid.

The car was hired from Avis (through Iberia). Air conditioning proved essential but a four-wheel drive vehicle would have been very useful.

The pace was relaxed and time was spent photographing the wildlife and scenery as well as taking in some of the cultural aspects of Spain.

Weather
Temperature varied from the mid twenties to high thirties. It was dry throughout with only occasional cloud cover.

Places Visited
Madrid and surrounding area
The main places visited here were: Valdetorres de Jarama - steppe like habitat to the north-east of Madrid; Galapagar (John's home) - good scrub habitat nearby; Puerto De Navafría area - mountainous forest to the north of the city on the border with Castilla y León; El Pardo - a large park to the north-west of Madrid (no access but views into the park can be obtained); San Martín de la Vega - good wetland habitat on the Río Jarama, south-east of Madrid.

Segovia
The Steppe habitat in the Parque Nacional Río Duraton and the rocky cliffs around Santa Cruz were visited for half a day.

Cuenca (Castilla - La Mancha)
One morning was spent birding around the lagoons near to the towns of Miguel Esteban and Pedro Muñoz (Quintana De La Orden).

Monfragüe
Spectacular wooded cliffs and river gorges surrounding the Castillo de Monfragüe. Further south, steppe habitat can be found on the road to Trujillo whilst there is an excellent wetland site between Almaraz and Casatejada to the east of the parque. Excellent birding.

La Serena
One evening and a complete morning were spent birding on this huge, rather desolate area of steppe.

Doñana
The Parque of Doñana itself was disappointing; the water had disappeared and the area was difficult to access. Good areas of wetland however could be found at El Rocío and the roadside lagoon at Venta del Cruce. To the east of the Río Guadalquivir, the salt pans at Casa de las Salinas proved productive.

Las Cabezas
The lagoons surrounding the town were visited for a couple of hours one morning.

Tarifa
Wooded mountainside stretching down to the coast. With the Atlas mountains of Morocco in the distance, this migrant hot-spot proved very productive.

Gibralter
Visited for one day. Difficult to enter (with a car at least) and in the main, over developed. The scrubby cliffs of the 'Mediterranean Steps' (on the south-eastern face of the rock) however proved excellent.

La Laguna de Feunte de Piedra
North of Málaga, this was visited for a couple of hours late afternoon whilst on the long drive to Madrid

Queen of Spain Fritillary
Griffon Vulture at the Castillo de Monfrague
Griffon Vulture at the Castillo de Monfrague

Itinerary
29/8 Flight from Heathrow to Madrid; overnight in Madrid.
30/8 Madrid area; Segovia; overnight in Cuenca.
31/8 Madrid area.
1/9 Cuenca area; Monfragüe; overnight in Trujillo.
2/9 Monfragüe; overnight in Torrejon el Rubio.
3/9 Monfragüe; La Serena; overnight in Castuera.
4/9 La Serena; Doñana; overnight in Matalascañas .
5/9 Doñana; overnight in car near Cádiz.
6/9 Las Cabezas; Tarifa; overnight in Tarifa.
7/9 Gibralter; overnight in Tarifa.
8/9 Tarifa; La Laguna de Feunte de Piedra; overnight south of Madrid.
9/9 Return flight from Madrid to Heathrow.

Birds (167 species, 34 ticks)
Little Grebe - Common.
Great Crested Grebe - Fairly common.
Black-necked Grebe - First seen at Miguel Esteban on 1st; Good numbers at Pedro Muñoz and Doñana.
Cormorant - Several along the southern coast and a few inland at Almaraz on 1st and 2nd.
Little Bittern - One at Almaraz on 1st.
Night Heron - Several at Venta del Cruce, Doñana on 5th.
Squacco Heron - Two at Venta del Cruce, Doñana on 5th.
Cattle Egret - Numerous, particularly in Extremedera and Andalusia.
Little Egret - Numerous, particularly in Extremedera and Andalusia.
Grey Heron - Common.
Purple Heron - Several birds seen, mostly at Almaraz.
Black Stork - Three (one adult) near Monfragüe on 1st; Two in Monfragüe on 2nd.
White Stork - Common around Doñana.
Spoonbill - A few at Doñana on 5th.
Greater Flamingo - 165 at Pedro Muñoz on 1st; Common around Doñana and Casa de las Salinas; Thousands at La Laguna De Feunte de Piedra on 8th.
Gadwall - Several at various wetland sites.
Teal - Fairly common in Castilla - La Mancha and Extremadura.
Mallard - Common.
Shoveler - Several at various wetland sites.
Marbled Teal - Two at Venta del Cruce, Doñana on 5th.
Red-crested Pochard - Fairly common.
Pochard - Fairly common.
White-headed Duck - First seen at Pedro Muñoz on 1st; Several later at Doñana and at Las Cabezas.
Honey Buzzard - One at Pedro Muñoz on 1st; One in Monfragüe on 2nd; One at Gibralter on 7th.
Black-shouldered Kite - Two east of  Monfragüe (near town of Oropesa) on evening of 1st followed very shortly after by an adult and juvenile nearby.
Black Kite - First two birds seen in at Miguel Esteban on 1st. Seen regularly thereafter, the largest number being thirty three circling together at Tarifa early on 8th.
Red Kite - Common.
Egyption Vulture - First birds seen at P.N. Rio Duraton on 31st. Seen fairly regularly thereafter especially at Monfragüe and Tarifa.
Griffon Vulture - Common.
Black Vulture - Several seen north east of Madrid on 30th. Occasional individuals or small parties thereafter.
Short-toed Eagle - First seen near Monfragüe on 1st; Several other birds in Monfragüe and Tarifa later.
Marsh Harrier - Fairly common.
Hen Harrier - Several seen.
Montagu's Harrier - By far the most common Harrier including a dark morph bird seen on the way to Extremadura on 2nd.
Goshawk - Several seen; the most common accipiter.
Sparrowhawk - Several seen.
Common Buzzard - Common, often perched by the roadside. The vast majority of birds were dark.
Spanish Imperial Eagle - One at El Pardo on 31st; One at Monfragüe on 2nd.
Golden Eagle - Several around North Madrid on 30th; Several thereafter.
Booted Eagle - By far the most common Eagle. Several seen on all days.
Osprey - One seen feeding on a fish on a roadside pylon near Monfragüe on 1st; One at Tarifa on 8th.
Lesser Kestrel - Common.
Common Kestrel - Common.
Hobby - Fairly common.
Peregrine - A few individuals seen at various locations.
Red-legged Partridge - Common.
Barbary Partridge - Around twenty birds seen on 7th at Gibraltar along the 'Mediterranean Steps'.
Water Rail - Common.
Moorhen - Common.
Purple Gallinule - Often heard calling but difficult to see; Three birds feeding in open late afternoon of 4th at El Rocío, Doñana on 4th.
Coot - Common.
Crested Coot - One, possibly two birds at Las Cabezas lagoons on 6th.
Little Bustard - Two on steppe east of Monfragüe on 1st.
Great Bustard - Around twenty at Valdetorres de Jarama, north-east of Madrid on 30th.
Black-winged Stilt - Common.
Avocet - Fairly common.
Stone Curlew - Several at various steppe locations.
Collared Pratincole - Around twenty-five seen at Doñana on 5th.
Little Ringed Plover - Common.
Ringed Plover - Several at Doñana.
Kentish Plover - One at El Rocío Doñana on 4th.
Lapwing - Fairly common.
Curlew Sandpiper - One at Miguel Esteban on 1st.
Dunlin - Several around the southern coast.
Ruff - Several at Miguel Esteban on 1st.
Common Snipe - Fairly common.
Black-tailed Godwit - Common, especially around Doñana.
Whimbrel - One at Casa de las Salinas on 6th.
Redshank - Common.
Greenshank - Several at various wetland sites.
Green Sandpiper - Fairly common; One flushed from a tiny puddle of water in the heart of La Serena on 3rd was a suprise!.
Wood Sandpiper - Many seen at El Rocío, Doñana on 4th.
Common Sandpiper - Common.
Black-headed Gull - Common.
Slender-billed Gull - Two adults (although possibly the same bird seen twice) at Casa de las Salinas on 6th as well as flight views of a 1st winter bird which was probably also of this species.
Audouin's Gull? - A briefly viewed adult as well as two 1st winter birds all at Gibralter on 7th were probably of this species.
Common Gull - Several around the southern coast.
Lesser Black-backed Gull - Numerous at Doñana.
Yellow-legged Gull - Common along the southern coast.
Gull-billed Tern - Regularly seen at various sites around Doñana.
Whiskered Tern - Several at Pedro Muñoz; Common at Doñana.
Black-bellied Sandgrouse - Six at La Serena on 4th.
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse - Around 200 at Miguel Esteban; Considerably more at La Serena on 3rd and 4th.
Rock Dove - Common. Most (probably all?) relating to feral birds.
Woodpigeon - Common.
Collard Dove - A few seen at various locations.
Turtle Dove - Common.
Monk Parakeet - Two birds together and then a third bird in flight along the Costa del Sol on 8th.
Barn Owl - One heard calling from the top of a roof in the center of Trujillo on 1st.
Eagle Owl - One heard calling near Galapagar.
Little Owl - Fairly common.
Red-necked Nightjar - One seen briefly near Galapagar on evening of 30th; One seen very well early in morning of 31st; One freshly dead by the lagoons at Las Cabezas on 6th.
Swift - A flock of around 100 at Miguel Esteban on 1st was by far the largest; Occasional individuals or small flocks elsewhere.
Palid Swift - By far the most common Swift.
White-rumped Swift - One at Castillo de Monfragüe on 2nd.
Kingfisher - A few individuals seen.
Bee-eater - Fairly common.
Roller - One north of Madrid on 30th.
Hoopoe - Fairly common.
Green Woodpecker - One flew across road near Cádiz on 5th.
Great-spotted Woodpecker - One at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Calandra Lark - Fairly common.
Short-toed Lark - Several at Doñana.
Lesser Short-toed Lark - Several at Doñana. Probably the most common of the Calandrella Larks.
Crested Lark - Common.
Thekla Lark - Common.
Skylark - Fairly common.
Sand Martin - Common.
Crag Martin - Several flocks: Cliff area north of Madrid on 30th; Santa Cruz on 31st; Castillo de Monfragüe on 2nd and 3rd.
Swallow - Common.
Red-rumped Swallow - Several individuals seen at various sites; Numerous around Castillo de Monfragüe on 2nd and 3rd.
House Martin - Common.
Tawny Pipit - Fairly common.
Yellow Wagtail - Fairly common; Roost of around fifty birds near Almaraz on 1st.
Pied Wagtail - Common.
Robin - Several.
Rufous Bush Robin - Two possibles at Tarifa on 6th and another at Gibraltar on 7th; all very brief and 'untickable'.
Black Redstart - Fairly common, especially on higher ground.
Whinchat - A few seen at various locations.
Stonechat - Common in most places; abundant at Tarifa.
Northern Wheatear - Common.
Black-eared Wheatear - Several seen at various locations; all pale throated males.
Black Wheatear - One at Santa Cruz on 31st.
Blue Rock Thrush - Fairly common in the right habitat. All birds seen were males except for a female at Gibralter on 7th.
Blackbird - Several birds seen.
Song Thrush - Several birds seen.
Mistle Thrush - Perhaps the most common Turdus Thrush?.
Cetti's Warbler - Common.
Fan-tailed Warbler - Common.
Reed Warbler - Fairly common.
Dartford Warbler - A few seen at various sites.
Spectacled Warbler - One at P.N. Rio Duraton on 31st.
Sardinian Warbler - One north of Madrid on 30th; Abundant in Tarifa.
Whitethroat - One at P.N. Rio Duraton on 31st.
Willow Warbler - Common.
Goldcrest - One at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Firecrest - One at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Spotted Flycatcher - Common, particularly around Tarifa.
Iberian Pied Flycatcher - A few seen at various sites.
Crested Tit - Two at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Coal Tit - One at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Blue Tit - Common.
Great Tit - Common.
Short-toed Treecreeper - One at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Penduline Tit - Several at San Martín de la Vega on 31st.
Golden Oriole - Several en route to Miguel Esteban on 31st.
Red-backed Shrike - One juvenile north of Madrid on 31st.
Southern Grey Shrike - Common.
Woodchat Shrike - Several seen on most days.
Jay - Several around Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Azure-winged Magpie - Common in Extremadura and Andalusia.
Magpie - Several birds seen.
Jackdaw - Fairly common.
Carrion Crow - Common.
Raven - Several seen at various locations.
Spotless Starling - Common. Large pre-roost flocks at Almaraz on 1st.
House Sparrow - Common.
Spannish Sparrow - Two flocks seen in Extremadura.
Rock Sparrow - Several at Santa Cruz on 31st.
Red Avadavat - Common at San Martín de la Vega on 31st but difficult to obtain good views.
Chaffinch - Fairly common.
Serin - One near to Madrid airport on 30th.
Citril Finch - One juvenile at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Greenfinch - Common.
Goldfinch - Common.
Siskin - Several at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Linnet - Common.
Hawfinch - Several at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Rock Bunting - Several at Castillo de Monfragüe on 2nd and 3rd; Several at Tarifa on 7th and 8th.
Reed Bunting - Fairly common.
Corn Bunting - Fairly common.

Butterflies
Swallowtail - Fairly common.
Scarce Swallowtail - One north of Madrid on 30th.
Small White - Common.
Bath White - Several seen at P.N. Rio Duraton on 31st.
Clouded Yellow - Common.
Cleopatra - A male at Pedro Muñoz on 1st.
False Ilex Hairstreak - Many seen on a group of trees in Madrid.
Long-tailed Blue - One at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Two-tailed Pasha - Several in at Monfragüe on 2nd; Several at Gibralter on 7th.
Red Admiral - Fairly common.
Comma - Several at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Queen of Spain Fritillary - Several at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Speckled Wood - One of the distinctive nominate form aegeria at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Wall - Fairly common.
Rock Grayling - Several around the Madrid area on 30th; Several at P.N. Rio Duraton on 31st.
Grayling - Several at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
False Grayling - Several at Puerto De Navafría on 31st.
Meadow Brown - Several at various locations.

Mammals
Roe Deer - Several, mainly in Monfragüe on 2nd.
Rabbit - Common.
Barbary Ape - Gibraltar on 7th.