Ecuador August 18 - 27, 2006


A short trip to northern Ecuador, with Barry Reed and Phil Ball. We covered both Pacific and Atlantic slopes at various altitudes, all within a few hours drive from Quito. Despite the fact that only a week was spent birding (when several months or even years would be required to do it properly), a good number of species were seen.

The list below includes only those birds that I saw well enough to include. A large number of birds were either missed or only heard by myself, or not seen well enough to include. But then, that's the nature of forest birding!

Weather
Apart from the first and last days which were fairly hot and sunny, we experienced rain every day. Sometimes the rain was torrential; one afternoon was pretty much wasted because of this, and at other times birding was extremely difficult. The rain also led to some of the trails we followed becoming very muddy and slippery and only just passable, which also made birding difficult.

Mornings were quite chilly, as were, as expected, the places of higher altitude.

Places Visited
Yanacocha Reserve
A high-altitude cloud forest situated at 10,500 ft elevation. The reserve protects 964 hectares of elfin Polylepsis Forest, which is home to many avian specialties but is noted primarily for its hummingbirds. Among these is the highly endangered and seldom seen Black-breasted Puffleg. Yanacocha is the only know place were this species occurs, though unfortunately for us is never seen during August.

Calacali Pass
A moutain pass about half an hour from Quito. Dry scrub that holds one of the few places in the world where Black-billed Shrike Tyrant may be seen.

Tandayapa
The gumph says: The only lodge in the world designed by birders, owned by birders, and run for birders by birders. The rest can be found here.

The Paz Reserve, Nanegalito
A small reserve in the foothills owned by Angel Paz and his two brothers (we were guided by Rodrigo). The history is: Angel occasionally encountered Giant Antpittas on his trails and became aware that these were special birds that birders were very keen to see. He started to leave them occasional worms and such along the trails, and gradually, over a period of many months, managed to habituate the birds to his presence. He and his brothers can call these birds in (they all have names which they respond to!), allowing for stunning views. In the case of Manuel, he is even fed by hand! All birds are completely wild however; absolutely incredible.

Milpe Bird Sanctuary
A foothill reserve in owned by the Mindo Cloud-forest Foundation, details of which can be found here.

Rio Silanche
Another reserve owned by by the Mindo Cloud-forest Foundation, this one in the lowlands.

Papallacta Pass
About 2 hours east of Quito, is the main route across the Andes Mountains to the eastern slope. In the higher elevations the habitat is high elevation scrub, grassland, Polylepis Forest, and paramo above the timberline. Down on the eastern eastern slope is the village of Papallacta, and the Guango Lodge. Around the lodge are a variety of habitats, including gardens with hummingbird feeders, cloud forest, chusquea bamboo, and a fast flowing river.

Loreto Road
The lower Loreto Road covers tropical areas between Coca and the Guacamoyos Ridge and is a bit over an hour from San Isidro. Many birds on this lower stretch are those typical of the Amazonian lowlands, while others are more subtropical in nature.

San Isidro
The gumph says: Surrounded by its own 1,300 forest reserve - has built a reputation for being the pioneer in private conservation and birding/nature tourism on the northeast slope of the Ecuadorian Andes. The rest can be found here.

Near Yanachocha
Hummers at Tandayapa
The equator at Tandayapa
Papallacta Pass
Butterfly at Loreto Road

Itinerary
18/8 Flight from Gatwick to Quito via Houston; overnight in Quito
19/8 Yanacocha; Calacali Pass; evening at Tandayapa
20/8 Tandayapa
21/8 The Paz Reserve, Nanegalito; Milpe; evening at Tandayapa
22/8 Rio Silanche; Tandayapa
23/8 Tandayapa
24/8 Tandayapa; Calacali Pass; Papallacta Pass; evening at San Isidro
25/8 Loreto Road; evening at San Isidro
26/8 San Isidro, then drive and overnight at Quito
27/8 Flight to Houston then Gatwick, arriving the following morning

Birds (289 species, 215 ticks)
Cattle Egret - About two hundred at Milpe
Striated Heron - One at Rio Silanche
Torrent Duck - Female on rapids under bridge at Loreto Road
Black Vulture - Lowlands of west
Turkey Vulture - Lowlands of west and two at Loreto Road
Roadside Hawk - Several in lowlands and foothills
Semicollared Hawk - One, Loreto Road
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle - Three, Calacali
Short-tailed Hawk - Two, Rio Silanche
Ornate Hawk-eagle - One, perched at Rio Silanche
Black-and-chestnut Eagle - One, Calacali
American Kestrel - Several sightings in west
Andean Guan - One at San Isidro
Sickle-winged Guan - Seen on all visits to the upper Tandayapa valley (may have been same pair)
Dark-backed Wood-Quail - An pair with four chicks feeding on worms at the Paz reserve
Spotted Sandpiper - One at the bridge on Loreto Road
Andean Gull - One on lake at Papallacta Pass, dusk on return on 26th
Feral Rock Dove - Towns and villages
Band-tailed Pigeon - Common at Tandayapa upper valley
Plumbeous Pigeon - Three around lodge at Tandayapa
Eared Dove - Quito, Yanacocha, and Calacali
Common Ground-Dove - Two at Calacali
White-throated Quail-Dove - One, upper Tandayapa on 20th
Maroon-tailed Parakeet - A flock of about ten at Rio Silanche
Blue-headed Parrot - One, Rio Silanche
Bronze-winged Parrot - Common at Milpe, and one at Rio Silanche
Mealy Parrot - Five, Rio Silanche
Squirrel Cuckoo - Singles at Milpe and Rio Silanche
Smooth-billed Ani - Common in lowlands
Great Horned Owl - One seen perched at dusk on Papallacta Pass (26th)
Strix sp. - 'San Isidro Mystery Owl' seen on first evening at lodge
Common Potoo - One roosting at Paz Reserve
Rufous-bellied Nighthawk - Five en-route to Rio Silanche
Band-winged Nightjar - Singles at dawn on upper Tandayapa valley (23rd and 24th)
Chestnut-collared Swift - About thirty at San Isidro
White-collared Swift - Common in west
Grey-rumped Swift - Four, Rio Silanche
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift - Two, Rio Silanche
White-whiskered Hermit - One at Milpe
Tawny-bellied Hermit - One at Milpe
Brown Violet-ear - Tandayapa on 20th (up to seven)
Green Violet-ear - Common at Tandayapa
Sparkling Violet-ear - Common at Tandayapa, and one at Guango, three at San Isidro
Blue-tailed Emerald - Common at Tandayapa
Green-crowned Woodnymph - One at Milpe
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird - Common at Tandayapa
Andean Emerald - Common at Tandayapa
Golden-tailed Saphire - One, Loreto Road
Speckled Hummingbird - Common at Tandayapa, Guango, and San Isidro
Purple-bibbed Whitetip - A few at Tandayapa
Fawn-breasted Brilliant - Common on west slope
Empress Brilliant - One, Milpe
Green-crowned Brilliant - One, Milpe
Chestnut-breasted Coronet - Common at Guango and San Isidro
Buff-tailed Coronet - Common at Tandayapa and Guango
Velvet-purple Coronet - Two at Tandayapa (20th and 24th)
Shining Sunbeam - Yanacocha, five
Mountain Velvetbreast - Yanacocha, two
Bronzy Inca - Two, San Isidro
Brown Inca - Fairly common at Tandayapa
Collared Inca - A few at Tandayapa, about five at Guango, two at San Isidro
Buff-winged Starfrontlet - Common in west
Sword-billed Hummingbird - One at Yanacocha, and one at Guango
Great Sapphirewing - Common at Yanacocha
Gorgeted Sunangel - One at Tandayapa (Belavista lodge)
Tourmaline Sunangel - Four at Guango
Sapphire-vented Puffleg - Common at Yanacocha
Golden-breasted Puffleg - Two, Yanacocha
Booted Racket-tail - Common in west
Black-tailed Trainbearer - Three at Calacali
Green-tailed Trainbearer - Five, Yanacocha
Tyrian Metaltail - Common in west and at Guango
Long-tailed Sylph - Two males at both Guango and San Isidro
Violet-tailed Sylph - Single male(s) most days at Tandayapa
Purple-throated Woodstar - Common at Tandayapa
White-bellied Woodstar - Three at Guango
Gorgeted Woodstar - Female at Guango, and male at San Isidro
White-tailed Trogon - Four, Rio Silanche
Masked Trogon - Singles seen most days at Tandayapa and five at San Isidro
Golden-headed Quetzal - One at San Isidro
Highland Motmot - One at San Isidro
Rufous Motmot - Two at Rio Silanche
White-whiskered Puffbird - Single at Rio Silanche
Gilded Barbet - One, Loreto Road
Red-headed Barbet - Seen in small numbers at Tandayapa and Rio Silanche
Toucan Barbet - Four at Tandayapa on 20th
Crimson-rumped Toucanet - One at Tandayapa on 20th
Pale-mandibled Aracari - Five at Rio Silanche
Chestnut-eared Aracari - Three, Loreto Road
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan - Common at Tandayapa, particularly in upper valley
Channel-billed Toucan - Three, Loreto Road
Choco Toucan - Seven seen in total at Milpe and San Isidro
Olivaceous Piculet - Six at Rio Silanche
Lafresnaye's Piculet - One, Loreto Road
Black-cheeked Woodpecker - One at Rio Silanche
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker - One, Loreto Road
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker - Two at Rio Silanche
Smoky-brown Woodpecker - Four at Tandayapa on 20th
Red-rumped Woodpecker - One at Rio Silanche
Golden-olive Woodpecker - Single at Loreto Road
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker - Seen on both slopes, with a maximum of four at Tandayapa on 20th
Lineated Woodpecker - One at Rio Silanche
Crimson-bellied Woodpecker - Pair at Rio Silanche
Guayaquil Woodpecker - Pair at Rio Silanche
Stout-billed Cinclodes - One at Papallacta Pass
Bar-winged Cinclodes - One at Papallacta Pass
Pacific Hornero - One at Rio Silanche
Rufous Spinetail - One at Yanacocha
Azara's Spinetail - Pair at San Isidro
White-browed Spinetail - One at Yanacocha
Slaty Spinetail - One at Rio Silanche
Red-faced Spinetail - One at Milpe, and a juvenile at Tandayapa (Belavista)
White-chinned Thistletail - A family party at Papallacta Pass
Rusty-winged Barbtail - One, Tandayapa on 24th
Pearled Treerunner - Four at Tandayapa, and the same at San Isidro
Plain Xenops - Single at Rio Silanche
Streaked Xenops - Single at Rio Silanche
Lineated Foliage-gleaner - One, at Tandayapa on 20th
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner - Three at Milpe
Streaked Tuftedcheek - Three at Tandayapa
Striped Treehunter - One at Tandayapa
Streak-capped Treehunter - Singles at Tandayapa on 23rd and 24th
Tyrannine Woodcreeper - One at San Isidro
Plain-brown Woodcreeper - Two at Rio Silanche
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper - Singles at Milpe and Rio Silanche
Strong-billed Woodcreeper - One at Paz Reserve and one at San Isidro
Spotted Woodcreeper - Several sightings in west
Olive-backed Woodcreeper - Single at San Isidro
Streak-headed Woodcreeper - Common at Rio Silanche
Montane Woodcreeper - One at Tandayapa on 23rd and several at San Isidro
Red-billed Scythebill - One at Rio Silanche
Western Slaty-Antshrike - Pair at Milpe
Plain Antvireo - One at Tandayapa
Pacific Antwren - One at Rio Silanche
White-flanked Antwren - One at Rio Silanche
Ornate Antwren - One. Loreto Road
Slaty Antwren - One at Tandayapa on 24th
Dot-winged Antwren - Several sightings in west, with a maximum of six at Rio Silanche
Long-tailed Antbird - One at San Isidro on 25th
Immaculate Antbird - Ever present in front of the hide at Tandayapa, but the only bird seen from there!
Rufous-breasted Antthrush - One, Tandayapa on 20th
Giant Antpitta - Two at the Paz Reserve
Moustached Antpitta - Two at the Paz Reserve
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta - One being fed worms at San Isidro
Yellow-breasted Antpitta - Three at the Paz Reserve
White-bellied Antpitta - Two at San Isidro
Tawny Antpitta - One at Papallacta Pass
Ash-coloured Tapaculo - One at San Isidro
Unicoloured Tapaculo - One at Yanacocha
Long-tailed Tapaculo - One, San Isidro
Narino Tapaculo - One at Tandayapa (lodge)
Spillman's Tapaculo - One at Tandayapa (upper valley)
Ocellated Tapaculo - After much trying, one performed well at Tandayapa upper valley
Green-and-black Fruiteater - One, Tandayapa on 23rd
Scaled Fruiteater - One, Tandayapa on 20th
Olivaceous Piha - One, Paz Reserve
Purple-throated Fruitcrow - One, Rio Silanche
Andean Cock-of-the-rock - Fly-by views of at Paz Reserve, followed by a chick in nest, later briefly joined by female. Finally, males in Lek at Tandayapa on 23rd.
White-bearded Manakin - Male at Rio Silanche
Golden-winged Manakin - Male at Tandayapa on 20th
Club-winged Manakin - Female at Milpe
Brown-capped Tyrannulet - One at Rio Silanche
Torrent Tyrannulet - Two by Loreto Road bridge, and one seen near river on return to Quito
Streak-necked Flycatcher - Two, Loreto Road
Rufous-breasted Flycatcher - One, San Isidro
Slaty-capped Flycatcher - Singles at Milpe and Rio Silanche
Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant - Singles at Tandayapa and San Isidro
Variegated Bristle-Tyrant - One. Loreto Road
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant - Tandayapa and San Isidro
Sooty-headed Tyrannulet - A few at Milpe
Black-capped Tyrannulet - One at Tandayapa
Golden-faced Tyrannulet - One at Milpe
White-throated Tyrannulet - One, Yanacocha
White-tailed Tyrannulet - Common in west
Rufous-winged Tyrannulet - One at Tandayapa
Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet - Two at San Isidro
White-banded Tyrannulet - One, Yanacocha
Tufted Tit-Tyrant - Seen on both visits to Calacali Pass
Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant - Single, Rio Silanche
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant - Fairly common in west
Common Tody-Flycatcher - One, Rio Silanche
Yellow-margined Flatbill - One, Rio Silanche
Ornate Flycatcher - One, Milpe
Flavescent Flycatcher - One, San Isidro
Handsome Flycatcher - One at Guacamayos Ridge near San Isidro lodge
Bran-coloured Flycatcher - One, Milpe
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher - One at Rio Silanche
Cinnamon Flycatcher - One at Tandayapa and one at Guacamayos Ridge near San Isidro lodge
Black Phoebe - One at Milpe
Smoke-coloured Pewee - One, San Isidro
Crowned Chat-Tyrant - One, Yanacocha
Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant - One at Tandayapa
Smoky Bush-Tyrant - One, Yanacocha
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant - Single at Calacali Pass
Paramo Ground-Tyrant - 3 Papallacta pass
Masked Water-Tyrant - Three at Rio Silanche
Dusky-capped Flycatcher - Common in western lowlands
Pale-edged Flycatcher - One, San Isidro
Rusty-margined Flycatcher - Singles at Milpe, Rio Silanche, and Loreto Road
Lemon-browed Flycatcher - One, Loreto Road
Golden-crowned Flycatcher - One at Tandayapa
Streaked Flycatcher - Singles at Milpe and Rio Silanche
Tropical Kingbird - Common in open areas
Snowy-throated Kingbird - One, Milpe
Barred Becard - One at Paz Reserve
Cinnamon Becard - Single at Rio Silanche
Black-and-white Becard - Singles at Milpe and Rio Silanche
One-coloured Becard - Single at Rio Silanche
Grey-breasted Martin - One. Rio Silanche
Blue-and-white Swallow - Seen most days on both slopes
Brown-bellied Swallow - About twenty at Yanacocha
White-thighed Swallow - Two each at Milpe and Rio Silanche
Southern Rough-winged Swallow - Small numbers at Milpe, Rio Silanche, and Loreto Road
White-capped Dipper - Two at Guango and one at Loreto Road
Thrush-like Wren - Four at Loreto Road
Rufous Wren - One, Yanacocha
Sharpe's Wren - A few on Guacamayos ridge near San Isidro lodge
Plain-tailed Wren - One at Tandayapa on 23rd
Bay Wren - Two, Milpe
Mountain Wren - A few on Guacamayos ridge near San Isidro lodge
Grey-breasted Wood-Wren - A total of four at Tandayapa
Andean Solitaire - One at Loreto Road
Great Thrush - First bird seen; common around Quito and Yanacocha.
Glossy-black Thrush - A total of five at Tandayapa
Chestnut-bellied Thrush - One feeding on the Antpitta leftovers at San Isidro
Ecuadorian Thrush - One at Milpe and two at Rio Silanche
Black-capped Donacobius - One, Loreto Road
Tropical Gnatcatcher - One, Rio Silanche
Inca Jay - Common at San Isidro
Turquoise Jay - A total of five at Tandayapa
Brown-capped Vireo - Tandayapa
Red-eyed Vireo - Seen most days in west
Lesser Greenlet - One, Rio Silanche
Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo - One, Rio Silanche
Black-billed Peppershrike - One, San Isidro
Tropical Parula - One, Milpe
Slate-throated Redstart - A total of six seen in west
Spectacled Redstart - Common on both slopes (though more so in west)
Choco Warbler - One, Milpe
Black-crested Warbler - One at Yanacocha
Russet-crowned Warbler - Two at Tandayapa on 20th
Three-striped Warbler - A total of five at Tandayapa
Buff-rumped Warbler - Common at Rio Silanche
Bananaquit - Two at Tandayapa, one at Rio Silanche, and one at Loreto Road
Cinereous Conebill - Four at Papallacta Pass
Blue-backed Conebill - One, Yanacocha
Capped Conebill - One, Tandayapa on 20th
Giant Conebill - One, Yanacocha
Grass-green Tanager - Five sightings at Tandayapa and one at San Isidro
White-capped Tanager - Pair, San Isidro
Dusky Bush-Tanager - Very common at Tandayapa
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager - Very common at Milpe
Guira Tanager - One, Rio Silanche
Dusky-faced Tanager - Single at Rio Silanche
Magpie Tanager - Two, Loreto Road
Scarlet-browed Tanager - One, Rio Silanche
White-shouldered Tanager - Pair at Rio Silanche
White-winged Tanager - Female at Milpe, male at Tandayapa
Flame-rumped Tanager - Common in western lowlands
Blue-Grey Tanager - Common in western lowlands
Blue-capped Tanager - One, Tandayapa
Palm Tanager - Common in western lowlands
Hooded Mountain-Tanager - One, Yanacocha
Black-chested Mountain-Tanager - One, Yanacocha
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager - One, Yanacocha
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager - Fairly common at Tandayapa and San Isidro
Thick-billed Euphonia - One, Milpe
Orange-bellied Euphonia - Common in lowlands
Golden-rumped Euphonia - Three at Calacali
Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia - Pair briefly at San Isidro
Glistening-green Tanager - One, Milpe
Golden-eared Tanager - One, Loreto Road
Orange-eared Tanager - One, Loreto Road
Paradise Tanager - One stunning bird at Loreto Road
Golden Tanager - Common in lowlands, particularly in west
Silver-throated Tanager - One, Tandayapa
Saffron-crowned Tanager - Very common at San Isidro
Flame-faced Tanager - Two, San Isidro
Rufous-throated Tanager - One, Milpe
Bay-headed Tanager - Fairly common in lowlands, particularly in west
Golden-naped Tanager - Four at Tandayapa
Spotted Tanager - One, Loreto Road
Blue-necked Tanager - Singles at Milpe, Rio Silanche, and Loreto Road
Golden-crowned Tanager - One, San Isidro
Golden-hooded Tanager - One, Rio Silanche
Beryl-spangled Tanager - Common on both slopes
Blue-and-black Tanager - Fairly common in west
Black-capped Tanager - One, Tandayapa
Rufous-crested Tanager - Pair at San Isidro
Yellow-tufted Dacnis - Two, Rio Silanche
Scarlet-thighed Dacnis - Female at Rio Silanche
Scarlet-breasted Dacnis - Male at Rio Silanche
Green Honeycreeper - Common in western lowlands
Swallow-Tanager - Two, Milpe
Tanager Finch - One at Tandayapa on 23rd
Ashy-breasted Sierra-Finch - Common at Calacali Pass
Blue-black Grassquit - Two at Rio Silanche
Variable Seedeater - A small flock at Milpe
White-sided Flowerpiercer - Singles at Tandayapa, and two at San Isidro
Glossy Flowerpiercer - Common at Yanacocha
Masked Flowerpiercer - Common at Yanacocha, also one at San Isidro
Black Flowerpiercer - One at Yanacocha, and one at Calacali Pass
Olive Finch - One at Milpe
White-rimmed Brush-Finch - One near San Isidro
White-winged Brush-Finch - One at Tandayapa on 23rd
Orange-billed Sparrow - One at Milpe
Rufous-collared Sparrow - Common at San Isidro, and several others seen at other places, including Quito
Buff-throated Saltator - Common at Rio Silanche
Black-winged Grosbeak - Common at Milpe
Southern Yellow Grosbeak - One at Tandayapa on 20th
Scarlet-rumped Cacique - Two at Rio Silanche
Subtropical Cacique - Several looking remarkably similar to the above species!
Mountain Cacique - Seven at San Isidro
Russet-backed Oropendola - Ten at Loreto Road, and about twice that number at San Isidro

Mammals & Other Wildlife
Red-tailed Squirrel - Fairly common
Western Dwarf Squirrel - One at Rio Silanche
Brazilian Rabbit - Several sightings in west
Lepidoptera and Odonata - Numerous spectacular species, particularly the moths at Tandayapa and San Isidro, and the butterflies of Loreto Road. Unfortunately, the only ones positively identified were Blue Morpho and American Painted Lady!