| Corsica, the destination for this year’s family holiday, was chosen because of hearing of several good reasons to go: beautiful scenery, delicious
food, great beaches, and last but not least, two endemic bird species: Corsican Nuthatch and Corsican Citril Finch.
Sunday 9th
We arrived at Calvi airport rather tired after only a few hours sleep due to our early morning flight from Gatwick, picked up our car - a Renault
Kangoo, a sort of small people carrier - and drove to our hotel Le Pins on the north-west edge of Calvi. Whilst checking in, the two
boys (Tom now five and Sam three) fell to sleep in the back of the car. As our apartment wasn’t ready, my Michelle said she would wait with
them whilst they slept and so, after bringing her out a cup of Coffee, I had a look around the hotel grounds and the surrounding area. The hotel
consisted of a series of apartments set in a pine forest (full of Serins) and the surrounding area was made up of marquis scrub leading down
to the rocky coast.
After an hour or so, the boys awoke, our apartment was ready, and so we went to Calvi harbour for lunch. The rest of the day was spent exploring
Calvi, followed by a walk around the rocky coast by the hotel.
Monday 10th
Woke up very late to a very windy first morning (the only day where there was any wind of note). Back to Calvi: Michelle went shopping to stock
up on some food and other essentials; I took the kids to the beach. The wind was too much for sandcastles and sunbathing and so we decided that
after taking the shopping home and having lunch we would explore Calvi properly.
Tuesday 11th
Asco: Another late night for the kids meant another late start but it didn’t take too long (a couple of hours) to get the famous car-park at
the top of the Asco valley in time for lunch. This was despite the fact that the road was closed and only some rather dubious manoeuvring by
myself and a couple of (Dutch?) guys allowing us to pass the bemused road workers. Whilst Michelle looked after the boys, I looked out for Lammergeier
and Alpine Chough. However, thick cloud after an hour or so put an end to this and so, along with Tom I walked higher up the valley - following
the ski lifts - where I had my second tick (the first being the numerous Citril Finches around the carpark) in the form of a pair of Nuthatches.
Wednesday 12th
England v Nigeria was ordered for breakfast, but instead got Argentina v Sweden (actually much better). After that it was down to the beach
for the day.
Thursday 13th
After a late night at a restaurant, we didn’t set off for our intended destination, Porto, until late morning. On the way, I had intended to
bird around the bridge over the Fango near Galeria, which is apparently good for Mamora’s Warbler. However, the scenic coast-road we had decided
to take was rather windy and slow and so, due to the time this was reduced to about ten minutes - with no Mamora’s. Apart from the town of Porto
itself, the day was also memorable for our first taste of truly outrageous and dangerous French driving when a lorry came to within inches of
hitting the back of our car before overtaking on the wrong side of the road: ‘Remember that most of the other drivers are going to be French,
and thus genetically incapable of driving with any degree of skill or safety’ (‘Corsica’, birding report by P.J. Heath, 1990). The road after
Galeria was also interesting to say the least: ‘If you’re driving and not accustomed to this kind of road your capacity for aesthetic response
[to the spectacular scenery] may be inhibited by a prudent reluctance to keep a date with your maker’ (‘Corsca’, Lonely Planet, 2001). Whilst
enjoying a drink outside the apartment at dusk, a Nightjar could be heard nearby and it soon showed itself exceptionally well.
Friday 14th
I decided to go out reasonably early and explore the area between the airport and the bridge over the Fango near Galeria. This route follows
the D251 and the D51 and is supposedly good for Mamora’s. I enjoyed some good general birding and plenty of Datford Warblers responded to the
Mamora’s tape, but no sign of the target species. By mid-morning it was getting decidedly hot and so I have up and joined the family for a day
on the beach.
Saturday 15th
Morning spent relaxing around the apartment followed by England v Denmark at lunchtime; three - nil. Rest of day at Calenzana (amazing number
of Common Swifts around the town), followed by a walk with the kids up to the Notre Dame chapel overlooking the town of Calvi where Michelle
was exploring below.
Sunday 16th
Followed a similar pattern to a couple of days previously although didn’t go down as far as the bridge. Again, no Mamora’s but plenty of Dartfords.
Not intending to go all the way to the known sites (around Vizavona) for a species I would probably one day see in the UK anyway, I re-read
some trip reports on my return to the appartment. One suggested that Mamora’s was common at the coast and at altitude whilst Dartford preferred
the coast and middle altitude. More importantly, it suggested that Mamora’s preferred very low marquis (less that one metre) rather than the
preferred taller habitat that I had been searching in. Recalling my walk around the scrub near the hotel on the first day, I thought that this
may be a good bet. But for now, more important matters: the beach.
Monday 17th
We were out early to get the boat to Scandola and Girolata. Sam and myself found it enjoyable but nothing too special; Michelle and Tom, who
never do very well on boats, spent the journey feeling ill and throwing up! Three types of Shearwater (if Mediterranean is split into two) were
seen from the boat as well as a nesting Osprey, which Sam enjoyed. A superb looking Scarlet Darter - a new one for me - was found at Girolta.
Awoke in the night to the sound of a Scops Owl.
Tuesday 18th
Again out early to drive to Corte where we spent a few hours before driving the length of the Restonica valley. Although not as reliable as
Asco, both Alpine Chough and Lammergeier are often seen here and with better views. With that in mind I went for a walk on my own for a couple
of hours. After about an hour I found a flock of about thirty distant (barely tickable) Choughs. They proceeded to land and fly around right
next to a group of walkers. Although they flew off further up the valley , I decided to walk to where they had been - which took about half
an hour - and, after a few minutes wait they returned to exactly the same spot, giving exceptionally close views. An adult Golden Eagle was
as close as I could get to a Lammergeier. Whilst waiting for me, Tom found a large Stag Beetle. The kids then went skinny-dipping in the river,
whilst a flock of Alpine Swifts flew above. After dinner in Porto next to the Cathedral, where choir practice made an excellent accompaniment
to our meal, we arrived home in the early hours.
Wednesday 19th
Up late from the night before. Scorching hot (too hot to bird). Beach!
Thursday 20th
Took the tram to Île Rousse and spent an enjoyable day there. Returned early evening, and after yet another enjoyable al fresco supper at the
apartment, I had a quick stroll around the coastal scrub - more of a reconnaissance mission for the following morning as it was nearly dark.
Friday 21st
Up early for a descent crack at Mamora’s around the hotel: no problem - responding excellently to tape. A quick swim in the pool to cool down
before anyone else was up (it was still hot despite being early - the last few days we experienced something of a heatwave). Everything perfect
and ready for England v Brazil: One - nil to England (am I awake yet)? Hmmm, okay. Michelle not feeling too great in exceptional heat so I took
the kids to the Revellata lighthouse (ignore Lonely Planet’s advice ‘Except with four-wheel drive, it’s just as well not to try it in the car’
- it’s perfectly do-able with care).
Saturday 22nd
Last day, and after a long session in the pool we had lunch in the forest at Bonifatu. Had a walk for an hour on my own looking for Crossbill
and more views of Nuthatches but the heat was stifling. Cooled off in the sea at Calvi beach in the afternoon.
Sunday 23rd
Home by lunchtime.
An excellent place to combine a family holiday with a bit of birding. I had four lifers: Marmora’s Warbler, Corsican Nuthatch, Alpine Chough,
and assuming the more or less accepted split, Corsican Citril Finch. Lammergeier was the only bird that I really dipped on but this was not
essential as it is more easily available elsewhere and often requires some time. Two other birds I needed, Wallcreeper and Snow Finch, are also
present on the island but at this time of the year are very high and again, are much easier elsewhere.
The two island endemics, Nuthatch and Citril Finch are obviously the two must get birds, but Corsica also has several endemic or near endemic
(i.e. also occurs on Sardinia) sub-species: Buzzard, Goshawk, Sparrowhawk (not seen), Barn Owl (not seen), Great-Spotted Woodpecker, Wren, Mistle
Thrush (not seen), Fantailed Warbler (not seen), Dartford Warbler (some authorities), Spotted Flycatcher, Treecreeper (not seen), Coal Tit,
Great Tit (some authorities), Woodchat (not seen), Jay, Goldfinch (some authorites), and Crossbill. Of these, only Crossbill has been tentatively
suggested as a potential split. As many birders, even those birding in the right habitat continuously seem to miss this species, I decided not
to waste any effort trying to find it.
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