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This was a joint holiday/birding trip that had been arranged for sometime. However, with the birth of first Tom (now four) and then Sam (now
two), we had decided to leave it until they were only enough to stand the heat and the travel. The emphasis was on the family holiday part and
I limited my birding to concentrating on the following target birds...
- Bulwer's Petrel
- Little Shearwater
- White-faced Storm-petrel
- Madeiran Storm-petrel
- atlantis Yellow-legged Gull
- Bolle's Laurel Pigeon
- White-tailed Laurel Pigeon
- Plain Swift
- Berthelot's Pipit
- Canary Island's Chat
- Canary Island's Chiffchaff
- Tenerife Goldcrest
- Blue Tit
- Chaffinch
- Blue Chaffinch
- Canary
In addition, the following birds - although available elsewhere - were also ticks and so obviously featured highly on my list of birds I wished
to see (particularly as I'd missed some on previous trips)...
- Barbary Falcon
- Houbara Bustard
- Cream-coloured Courser
- Trumpeter Finch
We stayed in the "Tamaico Tropical" Hotel in Puerto de Santiago in the North-west. The Hotel can be highly recomended and the location is also
perfect for visiting the main birding sites. All sites were found by referering to "A Birdwatchers' Guide to the Canary Islands" by Tony Clark
and David Collins and supplemented by various trip reports taken from the internet.
Weather
Hot and sunny throughout although sometimes cloudy for periods. The only rain seen was in the north whilst driving to and from the airport.
Daily Log
19th
The night flight had meant that we did not get to bed until about 3am and so we awoke quite late. We then decided to make the short walk to
Los Gigantes where we were to pick up the hire car from Hertz. Whilst waiting to go, I noticed the first Plain Swifts and atlantis Yellow-legged
Gulls from the hotel room balcony. On the walk I heard the first of many Chiffchaffs (I later saw my first in the hotel grounds). An Osprey
soared just above us and, nearing the centre of town, I found a couple of Monk Parakeets.
After picking up the car - I couldn't fit the child seats and so agreed to return the following day when someone would be on hand to help -
we drove back to the hotel where we spent the rest of the day.
20th
We were awoken in the early hours of the morning by Sam screaming about being covered with spiders! At first we obviously thought he was having
a bad dream but, when he refused to settle, it became more and more apparent that he was actually hallucinating. We took his temperature and
found it to be 103°F and so called the emergency doctor. The doctor arrived within ten minutes accompanied by two ambulance men (a slight contrast
in standards compared to the NHS!) and, whilst she assured us that everything was probably all right, decided it would be best if he went to
hospital for observation. So, after awaking Tom, we all went off in the ambulance to spend another sleepless night (it was about 5am when we
went to bed), this time spent in Playa de las Américas hospital.
Sam was all right (he just needed a day or so without going out and was given some antibiotics) but, very tired, we all decided to take it easy
again. I went to sort out the car child seats - but there was no one there to help again - and then I took Tom to the nearest beach, just South
of the town. I took my bin's and watched some Cory's Shearwaters and some distance Dolphins. In the evening, Tom found a Sardinian Warbler just
outside the hotel.
21st
After a reasonable nights sleep and a much needed lay-in we drove in to Los Gigantes to sort out the car child seats and have some lunch. The
seats weren't fitted any better than I managed and so we decided it would be safer to just use seat belts and get a refund).
With Sam seeming to be a bit perkier we drove to the Volcano Pico de Teide and the Nacional Parque. Some quite amazing scenery was seen on route,
particularly the views of La Gomera and La Palma poking above the clouds below us and over the sea. At Los Roques de García I saw the first
of, surprisingly not very many, Bertholot's Pipits and pointed out a pair of breeding Southern Grey Shrikes.
It was by now getting quite late for Sam to be out and Michelle had wanted to go to the gardens at the visitors centre at El Portillo. However,
I still had not looked for Blue Chaffinch which occurs in the area. Looking at the gen' I saw that the Chaffinch along with Canary can be found
in the gardens and so we decided to give it a quick twenty minutes. I found the Canaries easily but the habitat didn't look ideal for the Chaffinches
so we headed for home with the plan to stop off at the picnic site at Las Lajas. Here, the birds were seen before we had even parked. Great-spotted
Woodpeckers were also seen as well as more Canaries, but no Goldcrests were found - partly because I was also helping Tom look for Dinosaur
bones (!) - which he believed should be at the foot of the Volcano - whilst Michelle was resting with Sam in the car under the shade of a tree.
22nd
We took the winding, mountainous road to the village of Masca. Reading a report I noticed that someone had seen Barbary Falcon here. So, while
Michelle was looking around the shops, I sat on the balcony of a bar and, with the children happily playing with their dinosaurs at my feet,
I scanned the cliffs for half an hour or so. It wasn't long before I saw one gliding but the views were so distant it was just about untickabe.
Several Kestrels that appeared in the same spot also led me to question the identification, although I am sure that I was correct.
Leaving Masca mid-afternoon I stopped off at a passing point on the road to take a picture of the view and to buy some cold drinks from the
vendor parked there. This turned out to be a rather fortuitous stop because, as soon as I stepped from the car I could here what sounded like
a Peregrine calling. I could see nothing in the air but, scanning the cliff ledge I found a perched bird which I eventually scoped.
We then called in at Pigeon site at Erjos. It being late afternoon and very hot, it was really a waste of time (except for seeing a good number
of Chaffinches); apart from a couple of unidentifiable birds that were flushed whilst driving, no pigeons were seen. After about half an hour
and with the initially clear view suddenly becoming obscured by cloud I decided it was best to give up rather than keep everyone waiting. Before
leaving I took a breif walk looking for the Goldcrest but none were seen (although several were heard.)
23rd
Awoke quite early on my own as I was due to catch the first plane (9:30am) from Tenerife Norte to Fuerteventura. The journey from Puerto Santiago
took me about an hour and a half and I arrived in good time. At Fuerteventura I picked up my car from Avis - much more expensive than I had
been quoted but with the plane arriving late and with only a day to spend I didn't want to waste too much time so just paid up.
The road layout had obviously changed since the publication of my edition of the Clarke/Collins guide and it took me a while to work out where
the first site at Río Cabras was. It was now nearly midday and very hot - not helped by the fact that I'd also forgotten my sun-block and cap.
I walked the Barranco all the way to the dam before finding my one and only Chat (and a female at that.) However, I decided that, I'd make a
move and try again latter if time permitted (which it didn't) and so took a slow walk back to the car.
I then headed for the Houbara/Courser site at El Cotillo. Arriving in the heat of the afternoon, my hopes for seeing either species were not
high but, after about ten minutes, I was lucky enough to find a pair of Coursers. I drove the dirt track for about another two hours but didn't
see any more birds of note (at all?) My search wasn't exactly aided by the convoy of four-wheel-drive jeeps that were taking people at high
speed along the same dirt roads and, it being much to hot to attempt a walk of any more than a few minutes - particularly without sun-block
or a hat - I decided to give up.
After reading the gen' I decided to go to La Oliva to look for Trumpeter Finch and to try to find another dirt road off La Oliva were the Bustards
had in the past been seen. The Trumpeter Finch proved fairly easy and several flocks of Lesser Short-toed Lark were also seen. I did however
spend at least another half an hour looking for the degener race of Blue Tit before eventually having a brief flight view of one (it
being just a Blue Tit similar to the one on Tenerife, I decided that that was enough.)
I found a dirt road - although I don't think it was the dirt road - and drove it for an hour or so. It was now calling down but
I still saw nothing much apart from a Hoopoe. I then made a quick drive back to the airport as time was running short.
24th
Tired from the previous day, we did nothing but laze around the hotel and visit the beach at Los Gigantes.
25th
Hundreds of new birds today: The Loro Parque, Puerto de La Cruz. The only 'proper' new bird was a Grey Wagtail in the park.
In the evening, I thought I'd enquire at the hotel reception about times for the ferry to La Gomera, which we had planned to take the following
day, but because being rather tired (particularly the children) decided to leave to the 27th. The receptionist, although trying to be extremely
helpful (he had helped out greatly in translating the mixing instructions for Sam's medicine previously), gave me some misinformation: The ferry
was no longer in service and only the fast hydrofoils were now going to and from the island. The main purpose of the visit to La Gomera was
for the crossing and so, after having spoken to Michelle we decided that it was possible that we might give it a miss and I would instead attempt
a sea-watch from the land. However, I also needed to see the Pigeons, which I had decided to leave until La Gomera where they were supposed
to be a lot easier. So…
26th
Awoke early to be at Erjos at dawn when I thought the Pigeons would be more active. Bolle's was seen in a matter of minutes and the first of
two (albeit very brief flight views) of White-tailed were had fairly soon after. Later, whilst searching (again unsuccessfully) for Goldcrest,
I was able to scope a flock of at least ten Bolle's perched in a tree.
A Buzzard was the only other bird of note and, at around 10am I decided to head for home where the rest of the day was spent around the pool
where Sam was now deemed fit enough to have his first swim of the holiday.
The Goldcrest was obviously going to be a bit of a problem. I didn't fancy driving all the way to Las Lajas for what was supposed to be a fairly
common bird but it looked as though this was indeed going to have to be the case. However, both Michelle and I had decided that we should visit
La Gomera anyway and, reading the gen', I had noticed that it could be seen at various places in the Parque Nacional de Garajonay where we planned
to visit.
27th
Leaving the hotel later than expected it was going to be a very close run thing to meet the 9am boat and the next wasn't until around midday.
Arriving in Los Cristianos with just a few minutes to spare and with the signs for the ports being up to the rather variable Canary Islands
standard I made a series of lucky guesses as to the way to the port (bit of luck number one.) With two minutes to go before the boat was due
to leave and without a ticket I drove on to the boarding ramps so that they couldn't be raised. The rather annoyed official from the "Fred Olson"
company agreed to give me time to get a ticket as long as I was quick (bit of luck number two). The ticket office however shuts a few minutes
before the boat leaves and I was told I would have to purchase a one-way ticket on board and buy my return at the other end (this turned out
to be bit of luck number three.)
The crossing was a waste of time as far as birding is concerned, as the boat was just too quick. Arriving in San Sabastián, Michelle, who does
not like sea crossings said that she was desperate for a drink. I told her that I knew just the place - the "Bar La Carbonera" - but I said
I should first purchase the return tickets just in case the boat were to fill.
On the crossing we had passed a slow ferry which I had assumed was going to La Palma. However, in the booking office I saw that the company
(can't remember the name) had a desk. I enquired and found out that there is in fact a ferry and it was due to return to Tenerife late
afternoon (more luck) so I purchased our return tickets on this instead.
"Bar La Carbonera" and my final bit of luck for the day (I didn't need any more): Tenerife (silly name) Goldcrest. I also had much better views
of White-tailed Pigeon within minutes of arriving. The rest of the day on the island was spent briefly visiting El Cercado and then making various
stops in the forest and around the visitors centre where many butterflies were on the wing.
The return ferry produced a single Little Shearwater - which I still officially need as the 1999, Penninis Head record is still pending
- and a single Bulwer's Petrel. I also obtained excellent views of the ubiquitous Cory's Shearwater and had a pod of Bottle-nosed Dolphins and
an unidentified Whale.
28th
Took an early morning sea-watch from some cliffs next to the hotel (not a good watch point but I had really finished birding.) This produced
two more Bulwer's Petrels and another pod of Dolphins, again probably Bottle-nosed.
The rest of the day was spent at Los Gigantes beach and in the hotel pool before, in the evening, enjoying our first Paella and Sangria of the
holiday.
29th
The bin's were packed and the day was spent in and around the pool!
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